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Harajuku Japanese Street Fashion Glossary

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Harajuku street fashion is a world of bold self-expression, where dozens of distinct substyles give wearers the freedom to build looks that feel entirely their own. This glossary covers the key terms, substyles, and cultural references you'll encounter as you explore Japanese street fashion. From foundational concepts like kawaii to specific substyles like Jirai Kei, consider this your go-to reference for understanding the language of Harajuku.

Akuma

A Japanese word meaning "devil" or "demon" (悪魔). In Harajuku fashion, akuma imagery appears as a recurring motif in dark kawaii, Yami Kawaii, and gothic-influenced designs. Devil horns, bat wings, and sinister character graphics all fall under the akuma umbrella. It serves as the dark counterpart to tenshi (angel) motifs, and the two are often paired together in accessories and prints.

Alternative Fashion

An umbrella term for any fashion that exists outside mainstream trends and conventional dress codes. In the Harajuku context, alternative fashion encompasses every substyle from Lolita to Decora to Visual Kei. The term signals a deliberate choice to dress according to personal identity rather than commercial trend cycles. If you're drawn to Harajuku aesthetics, you're already part of the alternative fashion world.

Angura Kei

The darkest branch of Visual Kei, rooted in Japanese underground theater traditions ("angura" is short for "andaaguraundo," the Japanese pronunciation of "underground"). This substyle blends traditional Japanese garments like kimono elements with gothic and horror-inspired aesthetics. Makeup tends toward the theatrical, with white face paint and dramatic eye designs. Angura Kei stands apart from other Visual Kei substyles by drawing on specifically Japanese cultural sources rather than Western glam rock.

Anime-Inspired

Fashion that draws directly from anime visual culture, incorporating character graphics, color palettes, and silhouettes found in Japanese animation. Anime-inspired pieces range from subtle printed tees to full outfits that reference specific shows or art styles. Within Harajuku fashion, anime references are treated as a natural design language rather than costume wear. For Gen Z and younger communities, anime is a mainstream cultural touchstone that shapes everyday style choices.

Aristocrat Fashion

A dark, elegant Japanese fashion style related to Gothic Lolita but aimed at a more mature, less overtly cute silhouette. Aristocrat outfits favor long Victorian-era gowns, tailored coats, high collars, and rich fabrics like velvet and brocade. The color palette centers on black, deep burgundy, and midnight blue. Where Gothic Lolita balances darkness with doll-like charm, Aristocrat leans fully into refined, somber sophistication.

Classic Lolita

One of the three primary Lolita substyles, Classic Lolita favors muted, historically grounded tones and a more restrained interpretation of the Victorian silhouette. Think dusty rose, ivory, sage green, and chocolate brown rather than the candy pastels of Sweet Lolita. Prints often feature florals, cameos, and architectural motifs. The overall effect is polished and elegant, appealing to those who love the Lolita structure but prefer a quieter palette.

Coord

Short for "coordination," a coord is a complete, intentionally assembled outfit in J-fashion. The term is used across Lolita, Decora, and virtually every Harajuku community to describe a look where every element, from headpiece to shoes, has been chosen to work together. Sharing coords online is a central social practice in J-fashion communities. A strong coord demonstrates both personal style and knowledge of a substyle's visual rules.

Cosplay

The practice of dressing as fictional characters from anime, manga, video games, or other media. While cosplay is distinct from daily Harajuku fashion, the two worlds overlap significantly in Tokyo's street culture, and cosplayers are a regular presence in the Harajuku district. Cosplay skills like wig styling, prop crafting, and detailed sewing often cross over into J-fashion outfit building. Many Harajuku enthusiasts move fluidly between cosplay and substyle dressing.

Cult Party Kei

A Harajuku substyle that originated from the Cult Party shop in Harajuku, featuring sheer fabrics, cream lace, soft colors, and religious or spiritual motifs like crosses and rosaries. The look is ethereal and layered, with a handmade, slightly worn-in quality. Cult Party Kei shares DNA with Dolly Kei and Mori Kei but distinguishes itself through its spiritual iconography and translucent layering. It peaked in the early 2010s but continues to influence romantic J-fashion aesthetics.

Cyber Fashion

A futuristic Harajuku substyle built around neon colors, reflective fabrics, LED accessories, visors, and techwear-influenced layering. Cyber fashion imagines a high-tech future filtered through Harajuku's love of bold color and maximalist accessorizing. Goggles, circuit-board prints, and metallic textures are common elements. The style has evolved alongside technology, incorporating UV-reactive materials and wearable electronics.

Cyber Y2K

A hybrid aesthetic that fuses early-2000s Y2K fashion elements with futuristic cyber Harajuku styling. Think metallic fabrics, low-rise silhouettes, and butterfly clips combined with neon accents, platform boots, and tech-inspired accessories. Cyber Y2K captures the optimistic, digital-age energy of the millennium's turn and reinterprets it through a Harajuku lens. It has gained strong traction among younger fashion communities rediscovering turn-of-the-century aesthetics.

Dark Decora

A Decora substyle that swaps the usual rainbow palette for black, deep purple, and gothic motifs while keeping the signature maximalist approach to accessory layering. Skulls, bats, and dark character goods replace the bright toys and candy-colored clips of standard Decora. The result is a look that feels both heavy and playful at the same time. Dark Decora bridges the gap between Decora's joyful excess and the gothic side of Harajuku fashion.

Dark Kawaii

An umbrella term for kawaii-adjacent styles that fold in dark, unsettling, or macabre elements. Dark Kawaii encompasses substyles like Yami Kawaii, Menhera, and Gurokawa, all of which pair cute aesthetics with themes of pain, horror, or emotional vulnerability. The tension between sweetness and darkness is the point. It reflects a broader cultural conversation in Japan about expressing difficult emotions through fashion.

Decora

One of the most visually striking Harajuku substyles, Decora is defined by the extreme layering of colorful accessories: hair clips, plastic jewelry, stickers, toys, and anything else that can be stacked onto the body. Emerging in late-1990s Harajuku, the style treats the wearer as a canvas for maximum decoration. A single Decora outfit might include dozens or even hundreds of individual accessories. The philosophy is simple: more is always more.

Dolly Kei

A Harajuku substyle inspired by European fairy tales, medieval dress, and antique dolls. Dolly Kei outfits feature vintage layering, jewel tones like garnet and emerald, tapestry-like fabrics, and antique accessories such as cameo brooches and ornate keys. The goal is to look as though you stepped out of a storybook illustration or a centuries-old painting. Thrift shopping and vintage sourcing are central to building an authentic Dolly Kei wardrobe.

Fairy Grunge

A hybrid aesthetic that layers soft, fairy-like pastels over grunge textures and dark undertones. Imagine a Fairy Kei color palette paired with distressed fabrics, chunky boots, and smudged makeup. Fairy Grunge appeals to those who want the whimsy of pastel fashion without losing an edge of roughness. It has gained popularity in online alternative fashion communities as a bridge between soft and hard aesthetics.

Fairy Kei

A Harajuku substyle centered on pastel nostalgia, pulling heavily from 1980s Western cartoon culture and toy aesthetics. Fairy Kei outfits layer lavender, mint, and baby pink in soft, rounded silhouettes, often incorporating vintage character goods from brands like Sanrio and Care Bears. Tulle skirts, oversized sweatshirts, and plastic jewelry are staples. The overall effect is dreamy and childlike, as if the wearer lives inside a pastel-tinted memory.

FRUiTS Magazine

An iconic Japanese street fashion magazine founded by photographer Shoichi Aoki in 1997, which ran until 2017. FRUiTS documented real people on the streets of Harajuku, capturing the full range of substyles in candid, full-body photographs. The magazine played a major role in bringing global attention to Harajuku fashion and became a primary visual archive of the scene. Its pages remain a reference point for anyone studying the history of Japanese street style.

Ganguro

A Gyaru substyle characterized by extreme artificial tanning, bleached or brightly colored hair, and high-contrast white makeup around the eyes and lips. Ganguro outfits typically include brightly colored clothing, mini-skirts, and platform sandals. The style was a deliberate rebellion against traditional Japanese beauty ideals of pale skin and dark hair. Though its peak was in the late 1990s and early 2000s, Ganguro remains one of the most visually memorable chapters in Harajuku history.

Genderless Kei

A Japanese street style that deliberately blurs the boundaries between masculine and feminine fashion. Wearers of Genderless Kei mix traditionally gendered garments and beauty techniques, often combining soft makeup with streetwear silhouettes. The style reflects a broader cultural shift in Japan toward fluid self-presentation. It shares philosophical ground with Visual Kei's androgynous roots but expresses itself through a more contemporary, casual wardrobe.

Goshikku

The Japanese transliteration of "Gothic" (ゴシック), used within J-fashion communities to describe gothic aesthetics as they exist in a Japanese cultural context. Goshikku carries slightly different connotations than Western gothic, often incorporating elements of kawaii culture, Visual Kei, and Japanese horror. You'll see the term in Japanese-language fashion media, brand names, and substyle descriptions. Understanding goshikku helps distinguish Japanese gothic fashion from its Western counterpart.

Gothic Lolita

A core Lolita substyle that pairs the signature bell-shaped silhouette with dark colors, crosses, lace, and gothic aesthetics. Black is the dominant color, accented with white, deep red, or midnight blue. Gothic Lolita is one of the most internationally recognized forms of J-fashion and has been featured in anime, manga, and global media. It balances the doll-like sweetness of Lolita construction with a brooding, romantic darkness.

Gurokawa

A Japanese aesthetic meaning "grotesque cute" that combines horror or gore imagery with kawaii elements. Think bandaged teddy bears, candy-colored blood, and smiling skulls. Gurokawa occupies the extreme end of the dark kawaii spectrum, pushing the contrast between adorable and disturbing as far as it can go. It appears in fashion prints, accessories, and character goods, and shares territory with Yami Kawaii and Menhera aesthetics.

Gyaru

A major Japanese street fashion subculture defined by glamorous rebellion against traditional beauty standards. Gyaru style features dramatic eye makeup, voluminous or bleached hair, bold Western-inspired clothing, and an unapologetic commitment to standing out. Emerging in the 1990s around Tokyo's Shibuya district, Gyaru spawned numerous substyles including Ganguro, Kogal, and Hime Gyaru. The movement represents one of the most significant youth fashion revolutions in Japanese history.

Hime Gyaru

A Gyaru substyle meaning "princess gyaru," built around an ultra-feminine, luxurious aesthetic. Hime Gyaru outfits feature pastel or pink dresses, extravagant bouffant hairstyles (often with tiaras or bows), and a head-to-toe commitment to looking like royalty. The style borrows from Rococo and princess fantasy imagery while maintaining Gyaru's signature bold makeup. It's one of the most polished and high-maintenance branches of the Gyaru family tree.

J-Fashion

The standard umbrella term for Japanese alternative street fashion styles, encompassing everything from Lolita and Decora to Visual Kei and Gyaru. J-fashion is used by the global community of enthusiasts who follow, wear, and discuss these styles. The term distinguishes Japanese-origin street fashion from mainstream fashion and from Western alternative styles. If you're exploring any Harajuku substyle, you're participating in J-fashion.

Japanese Goth

Gothic aesthetics as expressed through Japanese street fashion, encompassing substyles like Gothic Lolita, Angura Kei, and other dark J-fashion movements. Japanese Goth differs from Western goth in its frequent incorporation of kawaii elements, anime references, and uniquely Japanese cultural motifs. The result is a gothic sensibility that feels distinct from its Western roots. It's a broad category that connects several of Harajuku's darkest substyles under one roof.

Japanese Punk

Punk fashion as interpreted through Japanese street culture, distinct from Western punk in its willingness to mix aggressive elements with cute or colorful details. Japanese Punk draws from classic punk staples like plaid, safety pins, chains, and leather, but filters them through Harajuku's mix-and-match philosophy. The style often overlaps with Punk Lolita and Visual Kei. It's edgy and loud, but with a creative flexibility that sets it apart from more rigid Western punk dress codes.

Jirai Kei

A contemporary Japanese street style meaning "landmine style," blending dark romantic aesthetics with emotionally vulnerable self-expression. The color palette centers on black, white, and dusky pink, with lace, ribbons, and delicate accessories. Jirai Kei is closely linked to Yami Kawaii culture and shares emotional territory with Menhera, but its visual language is more polished and coordinated. The style has become one of the fastest-growing J-fashion movements of the 2020s.

Kawaii

The foundational Japanese aesthetic concept meaning "cute," and the cultural value that underpins the majority of Harajuku substyles. Kawaii is more than a visual quality; it's a philosophy of embracing softness, charm, and childlike joy in everyday life. In fashion, kawaii manifests through pastel colors, rounded silhouettes, character goods, and an overall feeling of approachable sweetness. Nearly every Harajuku substyle engages with kawaii in some way, whether by embracing it fully or subverting it.

Kei

A Japanese suffix (系) meaning "style," "type," or "lineage." It's the naming convention used for virtually all Harajuku substyles: Fairy Kei, Visual Kei, Mori Kei, Jirai Kei, and many more. When you see "kei" attached to a word, it signals a recognized fashion category with its own visual rules and community. Understanding this suffix is the key to navigating J-fashion terminology.

Kitsune

The Japanese word for "fox" (狐), a mythological trickster figure from Japanese folklore. In Harajuku fashion, kitsune appears as a graphic motif on clothing, accessories, and masks, particularly in gothic, alternative, and streetwear-influenced designs. Fox masks (kitsune men) are a popular accessory at festivals and in fashion photography. The kitsune motif carries connotations of mystery, cleverness, and supernatural charm.

Kogal

A Gyaru substyle based on a modified Japanese high school uniform, featuring a shortened skirt, loose socks (often scrunched around the ankles), and accessories like phone charms and branded bags. Kogal emerged in the 1990s as a form of youthful rebellion within the school system. The style played a significant role in shaping broader Gyaru culture and Japanese youth fashion trends. Its influence can still be seen in contemporary J-fashion's playful relationship with uniform aesthetics.

Kowai

A Japanese word meaning "scary" (怖い), used in J-fashion communities to describe dark, frightening, or horror-adjacent aesthetics. Kowai sits in direct contrast to kawaii, and the tension between the two concepts fuels substyles like Yami Kawaii and Gurokawa. When a look is described as kowai, it leans into unsettling or macabre territory. The word is a useful shorthand for the darker end of the Harajuku aesthetic spectrum.

Kuma

The Japanese word for "bear" (熊). Bear motifs are widely used across kawaii and Yami Kawaii fashion, appearing on prints, patches, and plush accessories. Characters like Rilakkuma and Kumamon have made bear imagery a staple of Japanese pop culture and fashion. In darker substyles, bear graphics often take on a melancholy or distressed quality, reflecting the emotional themes of Yami Kawaii.

Layering

The practice of wearing multiple garments and accessories simultaneously, and one of the most fundamental techniques in Harajuku fashion. Layering is essential to substyles like Decora, Mori Kei, Fairy Kei, and Dolly Kei, where depth and texture are built through stacking pieces. A typical Harajuku outfit might combine three to five garment layers with multiple patterns and numerous small accessories. Mastering layering is often what separates a casual fan from a committed J-fashion dresser.

Lolita Fashion

One of the most globally recognized Harajuku substyles, Lolita fashion is rooted in Victorian and Rococo-era silhouettes featuring petticoats, lace, bows, and knee-length skirts. The style has nothing to do with the Nabokov novel; instead, it celebrates modesty, craftsmanship, and doll-like elegance. Lolita has spawned numerous substyles including Sweet, Gothic, Classic, and Punk Lolita. It maintains one of the most active and detail-oriented communities in all of J-fashion.

Maximalist

A design philosophy of "more is more" that sits at the heart of many Harajuku substyles. Maximalism in J-fashion means piling on accessories, mixing prints, layering colors, and refusing to edit down. Decora is the purest expression of maximalist fashion, but the principle runs through Gyaru, Sweet Lolita, and many other styles. If your outfit makes people stop and stare, you're doing maximalism right.

Menhera

A Japanese street fashion style that emerged from online forums where young people discussed mental health struggles openly. Menhera fashion expresses these themes through oversized pastel clothing, bandage motifs, syringes, pill graphics, and medical accessories. The style is a subset of Yami Kawaii culture and uses cute aesthetics to communicate pain and vulnerability. It has sparked important conversations about mental health awareness in Japanese youth culture.

Mori Kei

A Harajuku substyle meaning "forest style," built around loose, natural-fabric layers in earthy tones like cream, brown, moss green, and oatmeal. Mori Kei outfits evoke the image of someone who lives in a forest, with floaty dresses, knit cardigans, lace-trimmed layers, and handmade accessories. The silhouette is soft and unstructured, prioritizing comfort and a connection to nature. It shares a gentle, romantic sensibility with Dolly Kei and Cult Party Kei.

Neko

The Japanese word for "cat" (猫). Cat motifs, including cat ears, paw prints, and cat-face graphics, are among the most pervasive design elements across Harajuku substyles. You'll find neko imagery in Decora accessories, kawaii prints, Fairy Kei coordinates, and gothic designs alike. Cat ear headbands in particular have become a universal symbol of J-fashion's playful spirit.

Oshare Kei

A colorful, upbeat substyle of Visual Kei that swaps the movement's typical darkness for bright colors, pop-inspired motifs, and lighter makeup. The name comes from "oshare," meaning "stylish" or "fashionable." Oshare Kei bands and fans favor cheerful, energetic aesthetics while maintaining Visual Kei's love of dramatic hair and coordinated looks. It's the feel-good corner of the Visual Kei world.

Ouji Fashion

Also called "boy style" or "prince style," Ouji is the masculine counterpart to Lolita fashion. Ouji outfits draw from Victorian boys' clothing, featuring short capri-length pants, knee socks, vests, top hats, and cravats. The style is worn by people of all genders and offers a way to participate in Lolita culture through a more traditionally masculine silhouette. Ouji coordinates require the same attention to detail and accessorizing as any Lolita substyle.

Pastel Goth

A hybrid aesthetic that combines pastel kawaii colors with gothic and occult motifs like pentagrams, bats, and skulls. The result is a look that feels simultaneously sweet and sinister, rendered in lavender, baby pink, and mint green. Pastel Goth gained global popularity through online fashion communities and shares significant overlap with Yami Kawaii. It's one of the most accessible entry points into dark alternative fashion for those coming from a kawaii background.

Punk Lolita

A Lolita substyle that fuses the classic bell-skirt silhouette with punk elements such as plaid, chains, safety pins, and torn fabrics. The result adds a rebellious edge to Lolita's refined femininity. Punk Lolita coordinates might pair a tartan skirt with a lace blouse and studded accessories. It appeals to those who love Lolita's structure but want to inject some attitude into their wardrobe.

Rokku

A Japanese rock-influenced street fashion style that channels the energy of rock music into everyday clothing. Rokku features leather jackets, band tees, distressed denim, and bold graphic elements, but with a distinctly Japanese sense of proportion and styling. It's related to Visual Kei but functions as a more wearable, daily-life interpretation of rock aesthetics. The style bridges the gap between music fandom and street fashion.

Ryousangata

A Japanese youth fashion term meaning "mass-produced style," originally used to describe idol-fan girls who wear similar sweet, coordinated outfits. Ryousangata looks typically feature pastel colors, ribbon accessories, and a polished, put-together quality. The term carries a self-aware irony, since the wearers knowingly embrace a "uniform" look as a form of group identity. It is closely related to Jirai Kei and shares much of its color palette and accessory vocabulary.

Sakura

The Japanese word for "cherry blossom" (桜), one of the most iconic symbols in Japanese culture. In Harajuku fashion, sakura appears as a print motif on clothing, accessories, and fabric patterns across nearly every substyle. Cherry blossom imagery carries associations of beauty, transience, and the arrival of spring. It's a design element that connects J-fashion to broader Japanese cultural identity.

Shironuri

A Japanese street fashion style meaning "painted white," in which the face and exposed skin are covered in white makeup and paired with elaborate, often fantastical costumes. Shironuri looks can range from ethereal and angelic to dark and theatrical. The style is one of the most visually dramatic forms of Harajuku self-expression and draws from both traditional Japanese theater and contemporary art. Each Shironuri look is essentially a wearable art piece.

Substyle

A term used in J-fashion to describe a distinct variation within a broader Harajuku style category. Sweet Lolita, Gothic Lolita, and Punk Lolita are all substyles of Lolita, for example. Some parent styles have dozens of substyles, while others have very few. Understanding the substyle system is essential for navigating J-fashion conversations and building accurate coordinates.

Sweet Lolita

The most overtly cute of the three primary Lolita substyles, Sweet Lolita leans fully into pastels, ribbons, bows, and playful prints like strawberries, teddy bears, and candy. The silhouette maintains Lolita's signature bell shape with petticoats, but the color palette is all baby pink, lavender, and sky blue. Sweet Lolita coordinates often incorporate character goods and themed accessories. It's the substyle that most directly embodies the kawaii spirit within Lolita fashion.

Takeshita Street

The iconic pedestrian shopping street in Harajuku, Tokyo, that has served as the geographic and cultural epicenter of Harajuku street fashion since the late 1970s. Takeshita Street is lined with independent boutiques, accessory shops, crepe stands, and fashion-forward stores catering to every substyle. Walking down Takeshita-dori is a sensory experience and a pilgrimage for J-fashion enthusiasts worldwide. It remains the single most important physical location in the Harajuku fashion ecosystem.

Tenshi

The Japanese word for "angel" (天使), used in J-fashion to describe ethereal, heavenly motifs and aesthetics. Angel wings, halos, and cloud imagery all fall under the tenshi category. The concept is central to Tenshi Kawaii and appears across Yume Kawaii and other soft, dreamy substyles. Tenshi motifs represent purity and gentleness, serving as the luminous counterpart to akuma (devil) imagery.

Tenshi Kawaii

A kawaii substyle meaning "angel cute" that emphasizes ethereal, luminous, and quietly refined softness. Tenshi Kawaii favors whites, pale golds, and soft glowing tones, with angel wing accessories, halo headbands, and cloud motifs. The aesthetic aims to create the impression of something gentle and otherworldly. Compared to other kawaii substyles, Tenshi Kawaii is more restrained and serene, prioritizing an almost spiritual calm over playful energy.

Usagi

The Japanese word for "rabbit" (うさぎ). Rabbit motifs are a beloved element across Sweet Lolita, Fairy Kei, and kawaii fashion broadly, appearing on prints, bags, hair accessories, and plush charms. Usagi imagery carries associations of softness, innocence, and a slightly mischievous charm. Moon rabbit folklore from Japanese tradition adds an extra layer of cultural meaning to this popular motif.

Visual Kei

A major Japanese fashion and music movement defined by androgynous aesthetics, dramatic makeup, elaborate hairstyles, and influences from punk, glam rock, and gothic culture. The term translates roughly to "visual style" and describes both a musical genre and its associated fashion. Visual Kei artists and fans use clothing and appearance as a form of artistic expression on par with the music itself. The movement has spawned substyles including Oshare Kei and Angura Kei.

Yami

A Japanese word meaning "dark" or "sick" (病み), serving as the root of "Yami Kawaii" and a key concept in dark kawaii aesthetics. In J-fashion vocabulary, yami signals emotional darkness, illness themes, or a deliberate subversion of cheerful kawaii norms. The word carries weight beyond simple darkness; it implies vulnerability and emotional rawness. Understanding yami helps explain why so many Harajuku substyles engage with difficult emotions through cute visual language.

Yami Kawaii

A substyle meaning "sick cute" or "dark cute" that blends pastel kawaii aesthetics with motifs referencing illness, pain, and emotional distress. Bandages, syringes, pills, and broken hearts appear alongside soft pinks and plush textures. Yami Kawaii is the parent aesthetic for both Menhera and Jirai Kei, and it represents a broader cultural movement of expressing inner struggles through outward cuteness. The style challenges the assumption that kawaii must always be cheerful.

Yume

A Japanese word meaning "dream" (夢), and the root of the "Yume Kawaii" substyle. In J-fashion, yume evokes fantasy, imagination, and a soft detachment from everyday reality. The concept shapes not just clothing choices but an entire aesthetic worldview built around clouds, stars, moons, and pastel skies. Yume-influenced fashion invites the wearer to inhabit a gentler, more imaginative version of the world.

Yume Kawaii

A distinct kawaii substyle meaning "dream cute," featuring pastel cloud-like silhouettes, star and moon motifs, and a dreamy, slightly surreal aesthetic. Yume Kawaii outfits often incorporate unicorn imagery, rainbow gradients, and soft, pillowy textures. The style feels slightly untethered from reality, as if the wearer exists in a perpetual daydream. It occupies the gentlest, most fantastical corner of the kawaii spectrum.

 

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